6-17 December 2010 Meditation Retreat cum Pilgrimage to Guru Rinpoche & Mandarava Cave of Maratika, Nepal
As 6 Dec 2010 approached, groups of retreatants and pilgrims from different countries such as America, Europe (Germany, France, Denmark), Australia, Singapore and Malaysia gathered at Kagyu Institute of Buddist Studies (KIBS), Kirtipur, Nepal to attend a 7 days meditation retreat (6-12 December 2010). This retreat was led by Venerable Sang Sang Rinpoche, Ven. Sherab Gyaltsen Rinpoche and Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche in preparation of the subsequent pilgrimage (13-17 December 2010) to the sacred Maratika Cave of Guru Rinpoche and his consort Mandarava.
In the midst of the cold winter winds, we were giddy with excitement at arriving KIBS, many of whom have visited it repeatedly. After we placed our worldly possessions into the respective rooms, we dashed to greet our beloved guru Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche who had organized this immeasurably beneficial retreat and pilgrimage. Rinpoche received us with warm welcome and a broad smile. He was concerned whether we could withstand the winter chill. Everyday, he took upon himself to check on everyone’s well-being. We are very touched by his care and kindness.
At the invitation of Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche, Vens. Sang Sang Rinpoche and Sherab Gyaltsen Rinpoche accepted to give oral transmissions and teachings on the Practice of Guru Rinpoche’s Konchok Chidu Puja and Amitabha Practice. Despite their very tight teaching schedules, both Rinpoches out of great compassion, set aside time to give us these precious teachings. This was to prepare all of us to have a better understanding of the significance of the pilgrimage to Maratika Cave.
The ritual practice of Konchok Chidu, translated as 'The Union of all Jewels' / "Embodiment of the Three Jewels", is guru yoga a terma practice of Guru Padmasambhava discovered in the 17th century by the great terton, Rigdzin Jatson Nyingpo (1585-1656) (also known as Letro Lingpa). It is a complete text which includes an outer, inner, secret and long life practice as well as an amending of samaya fire offering and feast practice (Ganachakra Tsog offering practice). Through the power of the Lama, in the form of Tsokye Dorje - a peaceful manifestation of Guru Rinpoche; the Yidam Guru Drakpo - a wrathful manifestation of Guru Rinpoche; and the Khandro Senge Dongma, it removes obstacles and harmful influences; creates positive circumstances for the environment and all beings; increases virtue; and clears away all ignorance.
Widely practiced by the practitioners of Kagyu and Nyingma lineages in the whole of Tibet and especially in western Tibet and the Himalayan region of Nepal, this text is renowned for its simplicity and profundity. Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche, in his previous life, spent 12 years in retreat and completed 12 times of the Konchok Chidu's four foundation practices.
It is said that amongst the 500 different termas of Tsewang (long life empowerment) that have been discovered throughout the centuries, the Tsewang of Konchok Chidu is said to be the main one that confers Guru Rinpoche's most profound blessings for long life and freedom from obstacles.
We were indeed extremely fortunate to have received such precious oral transmissions and teachings from Vens. Sang Sang Rinpoche, Sherab Gyalsten Rinpoche and Shangpa Rinpoche.
Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche also invited Ven. Shi Yuan Fan to join this retreat cum pilgrimage. Venerable Yuan Fan was born in 1957 to a very humble and traditional family. He came into contact with Buddhism at a very early age through the interesting Dharma talks shared with him by his father. While pursuing his engineering degree at the National University of Singapore, the calling came. In 1979, Venerable Yuan Fan joined the monastic order. The Venerable is an expert on Zen, Vajrayana and Pureland Practices. Ven. Yuan Fan gave a lucid and candid talk on the differences and similarities and also historical accounts of Mahayana and Vajrayana Buddhism. He also shared with us his years of arduous Zen training in Korea. We could not help but respect him further on his accomplishments. He gave a sound advice that “One can own many material things and yet not be attached to them.” Truly wise words indeed.
In between the teachings, the lamas and anis would guide us in torma making, setting up shrine and Mahakala puja. It was a great learning experience living the simple monastic life, away from the hustle and bustle of our routine city lives. As the days passed, we forgot the dates and relied on the gongs of classes and bells of meals to remind us of the time. Yes, we could not access our modern appliances easily. Internet, mobile and electricity is not as smooth as we expected. Nonetheless, we learnt to slow down our busy minds and start looking within.
Finally, the day that we embarked on the journey to Maratika Cave arrived. Some of us travelled by bus or jeep while others travelled by helicopter. The journey was tough due to the remoteness of the holy site. Prior to the pilgrimage, we were mentally prepared for the hardships so most of us took it in strides and happy tandem.
Located in the District of Khotang, Halesi, the caves of Maratika are mentioned in Tibetan literature from the 12th century onwards. Padmasambhava met Mandarava, daughter of the King of Zahor, who possessed all the marks of a dakini. The two of them set out for the caves called Maratika. There, Padmasambhava opened the mandala of the Buddha Amitayus, and after three months he received the vision of Buddha Amitayus. Buddha Amitayus then placed vases filled with nectar upon the heads of Padmasambhava and his consort, and as he poured some of it into their mouths, both obtained the siddhi of power over life.
Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by the local villagers with flowers and helping hands. We were extremely grateful for their assistance with our belongings, without which we might not be able to navigate the rocky and rough terrains of the hills to reach our accommodation. Our city legs were not meant for the irregular and numerous steps of Maratika. We had a glimpse of the cave’s entrance as we proceeded to the simple guest house. The sangha members stayed in the tiny local monastery while the pilgrims made home at the starkly furnished guest house. Some brave pilgrims chose to reside in tents on a recently harvested field.
After we have sorted out our residences, we had hot noodle soup that warmed and nourished our bodies. Like a fatherly figure, Ven, Shangpa Rinpoche personally checked on all of our well-being and gave instructions to his lamas and anis to take great care of us. As it was getting dark, we turned in for the night to rest our minds and bodies in preparation of the next morning’s journey to the holy caves.
Early next morning after breakfast, we headed for the first cave. As we entered the cave, we noted several Hindu friends doing their prayers and offerings. The caves are sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. Within the cave are several ‘secret paths’ that many believed would purify defilements and obscurations and accumulate merits if one is able to navigate through them. Also within the cave are self-created images of Brahma, Indra, Hayagriva and Dorje Phagmo in union, and a rock of good fortune that grants the birth of sons and daughters and whatever one prays for. On the four directions are the four great kings; above are self-created umbrellas, victory banners, standards and canopies, and in the middle is a self-created prayer to the Guru written in the symbolic script of the dakinis. Inside the cave, above seven steps, is the self-created life vase used by Amitayus for bestowing the empowerment of immortality.
Is longevity really so important you may ask. It is essential for all dharma practitioners to engage upon longevity practices that are meant to restore vital energy that has been dissipated over time, resulting in illness, aging and death. They are employed in order to increase one’s own or others’ lifespan. With a healthy long life, we can fully accomplish the purpose of this and future lives, particularly in our spiritual pursuits. Thus, it is significant for dharma practitioners to do long life practises for oneself and for the benefit of many sentient beings.
The next cave that we trekked towards was the Cave of the Eight Means of Attainment. Inside is the naturally arisen stone of the flesh, blood and soul of liberating the female demons subdued by Guru Rinpoche. At the left of this cave’s entrance is a conch shell. It is said that just by hearing its sound, the evil states of cyclic existence are shattered. Five hundred arahats are said to have visited that place. Within this cave is the amrita or Guru’s blessed water. It is said that by putting that blessed water in the mouth, the five uninterrupted sins are purified. Guru’s footprint and the unobstructed sky door are also located in this cave.
In Maratika, there are the hills of Manjushri, Avalokiteshvara and Vajrapani – where the complete and pure wisdom mandalas of the Three Family Lords are naturally present in their entirety. Manjushri is the embodiment of the wisdom aspect of all the Buddhas; Avalokiteshvara represents the essence of the wisdom speech and compassion of all the Buddhas; whilst Vajrapani represents the power of all the Buddhas.
The next day, we headed towards Garuda Cave which is believed to be a good place to go to for people with cancer. At the peak of the cave is a naturally arisen formation of Garuda’s head with its beak clearing visible to call.
We were inspired by the caves history and legends. On a daily basis, we would walk to the caves in the morning and early afternoon, and attend the pujas at the monastery in the later part of the day prior to night fall.
On one night, we had birthday celebrations of two dharma brothers. Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche made a unique Tsampa birthday cake with assistance from his lamas and anis. A bon fire was lit and as we gathered around it, our hearts were warmed, joyful and in unity as fellow practitioners supporting each other throughout this sacred journey. After the birthday songs in a myriad of international languages from English, France, Malay, Tibetan, Chinese, etc, one of the French dharma sister sang an opera song as a gift to the two dharma brothers. It was very meaningful to celebrate birthdays in Maratika as this was the site where Guru Rinpoche and Mandarava attained immortality.
On the last night’s stay at Maratika, some dharma brothers and sisters wished to experience residing in the meditation cave of the Eight Means of Attainment. We packed our sleeping bags and bravely marched into the cave for the night. Amidst the individual pujas, it was peaceful ambience within the cave. We finally turned in for the last night within the holy cave.
The next morning, it was time for us to leave Maratika. We packed our bags in the early morning, had a simple breakfast and departed for KIBS, Kirtipur.
Once again, the villagers assisted us with our luggages and sent us off with the same smiles as we had arrived. Most of us concluded that the villagers are very simple and honest people who treated us with kindness and respect. Sure, there were kids asking for rupees and gifts and both stray and domestic animals such as dogs, goats, fowls, cows, pigs etc mingled amongst us. Most of the time, they let us be and were more curious on our activities than anything else. During our stay at Maratika, we also witnessed a wedding ceremony.
Before we left, each of us voluntarily dug into our pockets to raise funds for the local school and for cleaning up the caves. Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche handed the donations to the local chief in the presence of the local community and police. They were grateful for our generosity whilst we were happy by our small deeds.
In batches, we finally arrived our ‘home sweet home’ KIBS. By now we felt it was a palace as compared to the remote and tough conditions of Maratika. As night falls, we had a simple celebration where everyone gathered after dinner in front of a bon fire. We had a fun lucky draw of presents kindly sponsored by all participants. Laughters roared as we took turns to pick our presents on a draw basis. As the celebration ended, with heavy footsteps, we returned to our rooms to rest. By this time, many close bonds had begun to form amongst the sangha members and pilgrims. This is reflected by the great care and concern that were showered upon each other on a daily basis.
The next morning, we headed to a local old folks’ home. Once again, we brought useful gifts such as groceries and donations to support the home. We were greeted by extremely kind-hearted Dilshova Shrestha who takes care of 36 elderlys and 30 children. Dilshova, 57, who was abandoned by her husband for not being able to give birth to a son, has managed the Old Age Management Social Welfare Trust for the last 13 years. Popularly known as Aamako Ghar (Mother’s Home), she established the trust all on her own. In 1997, she picked five women from the streets and brought them to her house at Ravi Bhawan. She vacated five rooms in her house that had been given on rent. After that, she gathered many such women who were discarded or divorced or raped or deceived by their loved ones. Some of the women that Dilshova picked were on the verge of death. Later, she also started taking care of street children. In the last 13 years, at least 80 women have been nursed by the kind-hearted Dilshova. Of them, she estimates, about 25 have passed away. She also performed their funeral rites. Taking a cursory look around the Trust, one gets a feel that Dilshova is looking after an 86-member happy family that is multi-lingual, multi-cultural and multi-religious.
Tears flowed and noses sniffed as we saw through their eyes, the tough conditions that both the elderlies and children had to endure before meeting Dilshova. We are truly fortunate in every sense. The French dharma sister sang “Amazing Grace” to the children whilst we handed over tokens of gifts. Before we left, we gave our good wishes, hugs and smiles.
Throughout our stay in KIBS, we also visited Boudanath, Swayambuth, Namo Buddha, Pharping, Thamel (shopping!) and Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche’s mother Ah Ma Yum. With head full of naturally black and long hair (only small amounts of white streaks could be seen), we could not believe she is already 82 years of age. In her hands were a mala and a prayer wheel that she constantly circulated and spun through her fingers. Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche explained that Ah Ma Yum resolved to complete 100 million times of the 6 syllables mantra “Om Mani Padme Hung”. For that, we truly salute her and pray that she swiftly fulfills her wishes. Like a doting grandmother, she urged us to drink tea and eat biscuits and we happily obliged. As it was getting dark, we bade farewell to Ah Ma Yum and headed back to our palace in time for another warm and sumptuous dinner.
Finally, the day to depart KIBS arrived. With heavy hearts, we bade farewell to our now close-knitted international family of sangha members and dharma brothers and sisters. We took each other’s contacts and encouraged one another to return to KIBS again next year for a ‘family’ reunion. Amongst the hugs and farewells, we were most grateful to Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche for his love, unwavering care, concern, patience and teachings to every single one of us. We were also grateful to Vens. Sang Sang Rinpoche, Sherab Gyaltsen Rinpoche, Shi Yuan Fan, all lamas, anis and staff of the KIBS who showered us with kindness and great assistance. The sheer number of over 50 pilgrims was not easy for the organizers, especially at the remote but very sacred site of Maratika. Sure, there were discomforts here and there but in the end, we were proud to say that we overcame most of them. Now, we are more precocious of our fortunate living conditions of clean air, water, hot showers, warm beds and flushing toilets just to name a few! Again, with great care and concern, Ven. Shangpa Rinpoche called and sms the group to ensure that we have reached our countries safe and sound.
From the bottom of our hearts, we sincerely thank you Shangpa Rinpochela. Thank you for fulfilling our dreams at Maratika. May Padma Sambhava continue to bestow his blessings of great health and longevity upon you. We pray that you will remain with us for a long time to turn the dharma wheel for the benefit of all sentient beings. May all your projects be swiftly fulfilled and may you be successful in all your spiritual endeavours!
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